SOE Jakarta Autumn/Winter 2018 collection ‘The Unexplored Woman’
SOE Jakarta’s Autumn/Winter 2018 collection ‘The Unexplored Woman’ was heavily influenced by the life, style and work of American artist Georgia O’Keeffe. At the Freemason’s Hall, the attendees heard a soundtrack of a drum beat as the models walked around the room in identical black suede ankle boots. A fan of O’Keeffe, creative director and designer Monique Soeriaatmadja was inspired by the juxtaposition between the artist’s personal androgynous monochrome style and the vibrant and colourful paintings she produced.
Since its debut six seasons ago, the brand has focused on creating wearable everyday wear that can be incorporated into any woman’s wardrobe. With minimal decoration, it ensures its style is classic and timeless. Dedicated to reviving the art of weaving in Indonesia, SOE Jakarta applies local artisan techniques to technical fabrics. The brand is the first to show handwoven denim made on traditional Indonesian manual looms in a collection at LFW.
Handwoven cotton, silk organza and poplin were layered to create both fitted and oversized silhouettes. These came in the form of loose fit dresses, jackets, trousers, shirts, skirts that reflected O’Keeffe’s androgynous choice in wardrobe. However, a touch of femininity was visible from the cinched waists and drawstring detailing.
Matching the garments, the model’s makeup was minimal, except for blended out red eyeshadow that was inspired by O’Keefe’s Red Canna series. The majority of the collection’s colour palette was neutral with the exception of some blues, blacks and warmer tones. Yarns were dyed brown, khaki and sand using the natural dye Nayu Tinggi. These warmer tones were inspired by Georgia’s New Mexico Home.
Keeping with the brands Indonesian heritage, Batik stamp printing was used. The print was a simplified version of one of O’Keeffe’s blue period paintings, ‘Blue Nude’. This print appeared in a natural indigo dye printed on an oversized shirt dress and skirt. The design was embroidered onto chiffon layering pieces on a larger scale. These were the most embellished pieces in the collection.
SOE Jakarta has successfully created a collection of elevated basics for AW18. The designer’s inclusion of multiple textures and ongoing experimentation with fabric manipulation prevent the these ‘basics’ from becoming monotonous. The bandeau jumpsuit worn over the white roll-neck in sand stood out as a piece that would sell well in the highstreets and if styled correctly, could be suitable for workwear. This collection is also more commercial in comparison to her more experimental AW17 collection.